Iguana – El Sav Albino (c.b. babies)
Size and Sexing:
Males show several secondary sexual characteristics. One of the most easily identified is the large jaw muscles on either side of the lower jaw, below the ear. These muscles produce large, swollen-looking “jowls”. Males have large, blocky heads, and the jowls add to this effect. Males also have two fatty deposits on their foreheads, behind the eye and above the ear. These also add to the size and blocky shape of the head. Males also tend to have longer dorsal spikes along their back, especially along the neck area. Another indication that an iguana is a male is the large pores that are visible along the inner thigh. These pores, called femoral pores, are easily visible in males, and are often filled with a waxy substance. Two other male characteristics are a heftier, heavier body and a bulge near the base of the tail where the hemipenes are located.
Females have an absence of male secondary sexual characteristics. Their heads are smaller and more streamlined with a lack of the fatty deposits behind the eyes and have less pronounced jowls. In addition to having smaller heads, females also have small femoral pores which do not develop waxy protuberances. Females tend to have longer, slimmer bodies than males and lack the hemipenal bulge near the vent.
For an adult, six foot Iguana, they need an enclosure that is 9-12 feet long, 4-6 feet wide, and at least 6 feet tall, just to give an example of how large they get and their space requirements!
Basking spots should be provided for your Iguana, but it should be made so that the animal can move in and out of the spot freely to regulate its temperature. Basking spots should be between 90-95F. These basking spots can be created with a ceramic heat emitter or a reptile basking light (red, blue or white). Red reptile basking lights can be used at all hours as they do not interrupt the reptiles day and night cycle.
All temperatures should be monitored with thermometer. A thermometer should be placed to measure the temperature of the basking spot and another to monitor the regular cage temperature.
Heat rocks are never recommended for any reptile, due to the high risk involved that your animal can get severely burned on its belly or sides.
Feeding and Diet:
40-45% of the Iguanas diet can consist of greens such as collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens (with flowers), escarole, and/or water cress. Certain lettuces such as iceberg, romaine, and Boston butter lack sufficient nutrients and should only be fed occasionally.
Another 40-45% of their diet can be vegetables such as green beans, orange-fleshed squashes (butternut, Kabocha), snap or snow peas, parsnip, asparagus, okra, alfalfa (mature, not sprouts), onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, sweet potato, zucchini, yellow squash, and/or carrots. Rhubarb should never be offered because it is toxic to Iguanas.
The other 10% or less of their diet can be fruits such as Figs (raw or dried), blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, grapes, mango, melon (cantaloupe, honeydew, and watermelon), papaya, banana, and/or apple. Acidic fruits (citrus, tomatoes, kiwi, pineapples, etc.) should only be fed occasionally.
Wild plants are not recommended because it is likely they can contain dangerous pesticides that could be toxic to the Iguana.
If you have any questions, either about your pet or for educational reasons, feel free to give us a call.